*Black and White film development in the Lab-Box is easy. The best part about using the Lab-Box, for me, is that at no time do I have to handle the film until it has been fully developed.

DEVELOPING times will be different for each film brand, based on the water temperature median of 20C.

I use THE MASSIVE DEVELOPMENT CHART to work out the correct developing time for my film.
Then I use the TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION CHART to determine the appropriate developing time in accordance with the temperature of the liquid on the day. 

* * * Before I start, I set up all the components I will need for the process.

Click through each picture below to see the details for each -

Pour about 400ml water into the Lab-Box and turn handle for 30-40 seconds.
Pour out.

DEVELOPER:  300ml in LabBox
                         Minutes according to film chart for the film brand/type.
                         Turn knob for entire time.
                         Pour Developer back into container if using again immediately, otherwise discard.

WASH:        400ml water in 3 jugs             
                    Fill and empty tank 3 times, turning knob for 30 seconds in-between.

FIX:            I make up 1 Litre of fix and keep it in a black bottle.
                   I mark off the number of films used as I go.     
                   For 1 film - 300 ml pre-mixed fixer into Lab Box
                   Time for 5 Mins
                   Turn knob for the entire time             
                   Pour Fixer back into container

Film is now light safe.
Remove lid from tank, then remove film spool side section.

Run cool water over the film for 20 mins.
Pour out water.

NOTE:  When I'm only developing one roll of film I leave the spool and film in the Lab-Box compartment, for the running water time (20 minutes). When I'm developing several films at the same time, I transfer the first roll to a jug for the 20 minutes under running water, to enable me to begin processing the next roll while the other roll is still washing.

WETTING AGENT (STABILISER):
                      Ensure clean water is covering the spool.
                      Add 2 drops wetting agent.
                      Proportion = 500ml water + 2 drops wetting agent

                      * Lab-Box Method: 1 min Turn knob 30 secs, then leave to sit 30 secs. 
                        Pour off water and hang film to dry..

                      * Jug Method:  Move spool around in the jug for 30 secs, then leave to sit 30 secs.
                        Pour off water and hang film to dry.

HANG FILM TO DRY:
                      I use these clips that I bought on Amazon, to hang my film to dry.
                      I add the butterfly clip on the bottom of the wet film to keep it straight.

I find the Tetenal Mirasol 2000 to be so good that I do not need to sqeegee down the film
before hanging it up to dry. I just hang it up completely wet and it drys beautifully.

I bought a Lab-Box for my film development. The reason was because I found using the black bag for loading my film onto a spool for the Patterson Tank, to be problematical and I damaged a number of films trying. The Lab-Box provided a tidy and easy way to load the film onto a spool, without any damage, so I did my research and eventually bought one.
I find it a wonderful thing and really enjoy my film development using it.

Here's my method and my gear. 
For colour developing I'm using the CineStll C-41 chemical kit to make 1 litre.
I mixed the packets of powder as instructed and stored them in 1 litre black opaque bottles to protect them from light and deterioration. It's important to keep the chemicals quite separate, so I marked each bottle with coloured tape and wrote the name of the liquid on the tape. Yellow tape for Blix, red tape for Developer. 

As I use the chemicals, I make a note of the date and how many rolls of film. There are instructions in the C-41 kit, outlining how many rolls of film the 1L mix is good for. After that you must discard it and make up another batch.

To develop the film, both Developer and Blix must be set at a temperature of 39C / 102.2 F.
To heat them I use a straight-sided pot with a thermal immersion circulator heater clipped to the side.
I pour the developer and the blix into square glass bottles to heat the liquid and set a digital thermometer into the neck of each one. When I have finished developing I pour the chemicals back into their respective black opaque bottles.

DEVELOPER & BLIX at 39 C