Julie on Film
Menu

IMPROVEMENT TWEAKS TO MY LAB-BOX DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

7/11/2022

Comments

 
Picture
Attach the spool clip squarely onto the negative and leave it sitting like this until after you have added the developing liquid.
Developing film in my Lab-Box has generally gone well, although there have been a few problems along the way.  Bit by bit I've found ways to overcome them and nowadays each roll develops pretty much perfectly.

One problem I had was in the film occasionally catching itself together at the sides as it wound onto the spool, thus not allowing the developing liquid to flow evenly through the slots of the spool and encasing the negatives. I was getting a few ruined negatives, with black or white blotches, over the frames, where the negatives had caught together.

My solution has been to attach the end of the negative to the spool clip, and not wind it onto the spool until the developer is in the tank. I clip the end of the negative to the spool clip and leave it high as shown in my photo above.  The film itself is still safely encased in the film housing so the light won't get to it. At that point I pour in the developing liquid and then I put the lid on the Lab-Box.

Now I carefully wind the film onto the spool and the developing liquid acts as a lubricant to stop the film from sticking together at any point. The key is to make sure the film is clipped squarely onto the spool winder - it must be absolutely square on. I'm finding this method to be successful and have not had any problems since following it.
Picture
After pouring in the developing liquid, put the lid on the Lab-Box and slowly roll the film around the spool. Then continue the developing process in the usual way.
Comments

LAB-BOX FOR BLACK AND WHITE FILM DEVELOPING

11/4/2022

Comments

 
Picture
*Black and White film development in the Lab-Box is easy. The best part about using the Lab-Box, for me, is that at no time do I have to handle the film until it has been fully developed.

DEVELOPING times will be different for each film brand, based on the water temperature median of 20C.

I use THE MASSIVE DEVELOPMENT CHART to work out the correct developing time for my film.
Then I use the TEMPERATURE COMPENSATION CHART to determine the appropriate developing time in accordance with the temperature of the liquid on the day. 

* * * Before I start, I set up all the components I will need for the process.

Click through each picture below to see the details for each -


THE PROCESS:

WASH:
Pour about 400ml water into the Lab-Box and turn handle for 30-40 seconds.
Pour out.


DEVELOP:
DEVELOPER:  300ml in LabBox
                         Minutes according to film chart for the film brand/type.
                         Turn knob for entire time.
                         Pour Developer back into container if using again immediately, otherwise discard.


WASH

WASH:        400ml water in 3 jugs             
                    Fill and empty tank 3 times, turning knob for 30 seconds in-between.

FIX:
FIX:            I make up 1 Litre of fix and keep it in a black bottle.
                   I mark off the number of films used as I go.     
                   For 1 film - 300 ml pre-mixed fixer into Lab Box
                   Time for 5 Mins
                   Turn knob for the entire time             
                   Pour Fixer back into container

Film is now light safe.
Remove lid from tank, then remove film spool side section.


FILM CANNISTER SECTION REMOVED FROM LAB-BOX



FINAL WATER WASH:
Picture
- OR -
Picture
Run cool water over the film for 20 mins.
Pour out water.

NOTE:  When I'm only developing one roll of film I leave the spool and film in the Lab-Box compartment, for the running water time (20 minutes). When I'm developing several films at the same time, I transfer the first roll to a jug for the 20 minutes under running water, to enable me to begin processing the next roll while the other roll is still washing.


FINAL ACTION:   WETTING AGENT (STABILISER)

WETTING AGENT (STABILISER):
                      Ensure clean water is covering the spool.
                      Add 2 drops wetting agent.
                      Proportion = 500ml water + 2 drops wetting agent

                      * Lab-Box Method: 1 min Turn knob 30 secs, then leave to sit 30 secs. 
                        Pour off water and hang film to dry..

                      * Jug Method:  Move spool around in the jug for 30 secs, then leave to sit 30 secs.
                        Pour off water and hang film to dry.

HANG FILM TO DRY:
HANG FILM TO DRY:
                      I use these clips that I bought on Amazon, to hang my film to dry.
                      I add the butterfly clip on the bottom of the wet film to keep it straight.

I find the Tetenal Mirasol 2000 to be so good that I do not need to sqeegee down the film
before hanging it up to dry. I just hang it up completely wet and it drys beautifully.

Comments
    Picture

    Author

    I'm Julie Camera Vause and I'm passionate about my photography.
    I found my way back to film photography in my 60's and I am absolutely loving it.
    I live in the far north of New Zealand.


    Archives

    January 2023
    November 2022
    September 2022
    April 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021


    Categories

    All
    35mm Film Camera
    AGFAPHOTO FILM CAMERA
    Black And White Film Developing
    Colour Developing
    Colour Photos
    Film Developing
    Lab Box
    Lab-Box
    Minolta Camera
    News
    Nikon


    RSS Feed


    Picture
    See my film
    photography
    on

    FLICKR

  PAGE VIEWS



 MY Location



 The Fineprint


  • The photographs and texts on this website are the work and property of me, Julie Camera Vause.  
  • Permission to copy, download or distribute any photograph or text on this website is denied without my express written permission.


site seal
© COPYRIGHT 2023     julieonfilm.com by Julie Camera Vause.   ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
  • HOME
  • NEWS BLOG
  • MY CAMERAS
    • MINOLTA DYNAX 500si
    • MINOLTA HI-MATIC F
    • NIKON F65
    • NIKON FM3 A
    • YASHICA MAT 124G
    • AGFA PHOTO 35mm
  • MY FILM TYPES
    • ILFORD FP4 PLUS 125
    • KODAK GOLD 200
    • KODAK ULTRA MAX
    • KODAK PORTRA 400 >
      • RUSSELL
  • LAB-BOX
    • Black & White Developing
    • Colour Developing
  • LOCAL AREA PICS
    • OPUA AREA
    • PAIHIA
    • RUSSELL
    • RUSSELL Ilford FP4
    • WAITANGI
  • NORTHLAND
    • HIKURANGI
    • WHANGAREI
  • AUCKLAND
    • CITY
    • NORTH SHORE
  • ARTICLES
    • RUSSELL NZ
  • ABOUT
  • HOME
  • NEWS BLOG
  • MY CAMERAS
    • MINOLTA DYNAX 500si
    • MINOLTA HI-MATIC F
    • NIKON F65
    • NIKON FM3 A
    • YASHICA MAT 124G
    • AGFA PHOTO 35mm
  • MY FILM TYPES
    • ILFORD FP4 PLUS 125
    • KODAK GOLD 200
    • KODAK ULTRA MAX
    • KODAK PORTRA 400 >
      • RUSSELL
  • LAB-BOX
    • Black & White Developing
    • Colour Developing
  • LOCAL AREA PICS
    • OPUA AREA
    • PAIHIA
    • RUSSELL
    • RUSSELL Ilford FP4
    • WAITANGI
  • NORTHLAND
    • HIKURANGI
    • WHANGAREI
  • AUCKLAND
    • CITY
    • NORTH SHORE
  • ARTICLES
    • RUSSELL NZ
  • ABOUT